Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version) - UPDATED, NEW AND IMPROVED (11/23/11)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)
My Final Measurements: 19.5" long and 5" wide at widest part (the length can be adjusted to fit your head size by adding or subtracting rows in the middle section where you're just doing rib and not increasing or decreasing)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop

k3tog - knit 3 stitches together

p3tog - purl 3 stitches together 

You will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch if the row has an odd number of stitches and between the middle 2 stitches if your row has an even number of stitches. You will increase on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. So if you CO more or less, just always do your increases and decreases at the very center of the row. The easiest way to think about the knitting part of this pattern, is that you only ever do anything different to the stitches right in the center of  a row and the rest is always worked in the rib pattern. So the inc will be right in the center of the row, the dec, also right in the center of the row and everything else is always the rib. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increase:

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, Pfb, K1, P1, K1 (8 st)

Row 6: P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1 (you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.) 

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, m1F, P1, K1, P1, K1 (9 st)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P1, Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1 (10 st)

Row 10: P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1 (again, you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row) 

Row 11: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1B, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (11 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You should have 23 stitches on the needle. (ETA: you are repeating the entire increase from rows 5-12 but just with more stitches to account for before and after the increase which is always right in the middle).

Work in the rib pattern for another 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] 5x, k3tog, [P1, K1] 5x (21 st)


Row 2 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 3 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 4 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5 (RS): K1, [P1, K1] 4x, P3tog, [K1, P1]  4x, K1

Row 6 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 7 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 8 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other RS row k3tog or p3tog--until you have 7 stitches on the needle. Ending with 4 rows of knitting in the rib pattern. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.

Crochet Edging*:

Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off.

For The Flower (Crochet):

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center (knitted) - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the head wrap